Georgian alpinists set a record! – Fastest climb on Ushba peak in history
21 September, 2015
Georgian alpinists set a record! – Fastest climb on Ushba peak in history
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On September 18, the group of Georgian mountaineers climbed the mount Ushba.
Zura Kvesitadze and Lasha Kvekveskiri carried out the fastest ascent in history to the Ushba’s southern peak. The young climbers used the so-called Gabriel Khergiani’s route. The 5B (difficulty standard) route was covered by Georgians in 9 hours and 56 minutes, which means they set a new record.
It should be noted, that from 14 to 19 September, three groups of alpinists climbed the
Ushba.
Another important fact is that it was the first conquest of Ushba by the Azeri climber Piruz Dadashov, who was the member of Irakli Gujabidze’s group. The third group consisted of Giorgi Kakhabrishvili, Giorgi Makalatia, Bakar Gelashvili and Levan Tsibadze.
The height of Ushba is 4710 meters (15452 feet) and in 1968 the English alpinists, under the command of Douglas Freshfield, made the first attempt to climb it. However, they couldn’t do it. In 1888, the Englishmen John Garford Cokklin and Ulrich Almer made it to the northern peak and it was the first ever successful attempt.
In 1934, brother and sister, Aliosha and Alexandra Japaridze, as well as Gio Niguriani and Iagor Kazalikashvili were the first Georgians to reach the peak of Ushba and Alexandra was the first woman to do so. In 1937, the hardest route to the southern peak was conquested by Gabriel, Beknu and Besarion Khergiani, Chichiko Chartolani and Maxime Gvarliani.

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